Paris Fashion Week is a glamorous grind, but its offerings are otherworldly. Telfar Clemens (who typically shows in NYC) brought his scene-stealing spectacle to kick off the week. Naomi Campbell closed Saint Laurent’s light show at the Eiffel Tower wearing a sequin suit. Rick Owens boasted bubble blowers, while pleated dresses suspended in the air cascaded down and slipped onto models at Issey Miyake. Balenciaga served up larger-than-life ballgowns that bounced down the runway. And Louis Vuitton closed the week with a front row that included Justin Timberlake and Jessica Biel. Ah, the magic of Paris.
Paris waxed nostalgic for Bohemia: While Paco Rabanne took a psychedelic trip with bold colors and groovy prints, Hedi Slimane’s Celine nailed a more streamlined aesthetic with high-waisted flared jeans and romantic peasant tops. Saint Laurent marched to a rock vibe, complete with Lurex head scarves and hot pants.
Clothes were slished and slashed every which asymmetric way. Dior and Valentino both showed one-shouldered stunners, adorned with flowers and feathers, while Alexander McQueen whipped up zigzagged hemlines with piled-on layers. Heavenly.
The color of the spring 2020 season (shades of it also dominated New York runways last month) has never been easier on the eyes. Louis Vuitton showed paisley-printed coat dresses, while Givenchy and Balenciaga offered floral frocks. Balmain blinged out minis with bubble-shaped embellishments, while Noir Kei Ninomiya’s tulle gowns personified botanical beauties.
Runways felt more pared down than ever, but not without thought behind the threads: Off-White’s high-slit shirtdress tapped into fashion’s obsession with ’90s minimalism, while Miu Miu’s white dress — styled easily with a cardigan — struck the perfect balance between retro and sexy. At Loewe, essentials were stripped down to a sheer bra and flowing skirt. Simply stunning.
Power dressing doesn’t have to mean pants: Chanel tricked out its signature tweed with Carrie Bradshaw-like flower pins, peplums and flats. Marine Serre showed matchy minis (and little dogs, too). Altuzarra’s tailored skirt suit, meanwhile, was a study in color play.
It takes a lot to excite the normally jaded fashion crowd, especially on the last leg of fashion month. But Belgian designer Dries Van Noten (known for his immensely wearable pieces) pulled off just such a feat by unveiling a top-secret collaboration with over-the-top French designer Christian Lacroix. Just for fun! (Fun! Who would’ve thought?!) The looks were hybrids of the two iconic aesthetics: bright bows and ruffles blended seamlessly with slouchy sweatshirts, practical bottoms and embellished outerwear. A hearty reminder that fashion — at its core — is meant to delight.
For her debut Paris fashion-week presentation at the Peninsula Paris, Brother Vellies founder and creative director Aurora James sought inspiration from the ’70s and the ’90s. Translation? These spectacularly decadent, disco-inspired strappy sandals, destined to be spring 2020’s shiniest street-style stars.
Florals are a spring evergreen, especially on Giambattista Valli’s runways. This time, he piled flowers not only on his signature frothy frocks, but also on models. Their faces were framed with freshly cut orchids, while others wore pastel feather crowns, tiara-style (left). Garden party at its finest.
By Anahita Moussavian